the wandering chick

Finally, after a couple days of gloomy weather, the sun decided to show its face. Funny how a ray of sunshine can wipe away any memories of previous white-sky days.

I couldn't wait to put on the hiking boots on this gorgeous Thursday, and I was in the perfect spot for some spectacular coastal hikes along this section of Oregon's southern coast. Overlooking the Pacific from above, the trails meander through pine forests, following the twists and curves of the coast.

In either direction - north or south - a segment of the Oregon Coast Trail is at your feet. One mile north will take you to Sunset Bay State Park beach. Along that trail you'll see off-shore lime rock formations like you've never seen before. Sunset Bay State Park is the only one of the three that offers camping; its beach is the largest in the area.

One mile south will take you to Cape Arago State Park and the end of the Cape Arago Highway. It won't be long along this route before you'll hear the not-too-distant and ever present sound of barking sea lions. You'll pass Simpson Reef where they and seals share an off-shore series of islands, the largest being Shell Island, part of the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge. Also along this route, a view of the Cape Arago Lighthouse can be had.

Shore Acres State Park, another of three here, was once the site of an estate owned by Louis Simpson, made wealthy in the timber and ship building businesses. Long deteriorated, his mansion stood where today is an observation building. The botanical gardens, however, remain and are worth a walk-through.

To get to this most scenic section of the Oregon coast, follow signs from Coos Bay to Charleston and the beaches westward, which becomes Highway 540, the Cape Arago Highway, heading west from the 101.

...the Cape Arago Highway
and its stunning coastline
Shore Acres State Park
a tree trunk and exposed roots make a scenic formation
At the entrance to the Shore Acres State Park
This and the next many shots were taken heading north on the Oregon Coast Trail between Shore Acres State Park and the beach at Sunset Bay State Park. It's roughly a two mile (round trip) hike.
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
The off shore rock formations at this part of Oregon's coast are of particular interest. Among them are concretions (such as the black ball-shaped rocks) that have gained the curiousity of scientists all over the world. Also one can see a good example of tafoni which is small cave-like indentations in such soft rocks as sandstone. Seen in various formations, there are several areas of the world where tafoni exist. Several pictures below show both the ball-shaped rocks and the tafoni. From the Shore Acres observation building, walk the path to the right (north) and you'll soon begin to see these fascinating rock formations.
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
coastal trail
rock formations off shore
rock formations off shore
rock formations off shore
rock formations off shore
rock formations off shore
rock formations off shore
rock formations off shore
rock formations off shore
rock formations off shore
rock formations off shore
the coastal trail
the coastal trail
slow motion waves over rocks
The ocean waves shot in slow motion betray the power of the water as they crash, then flow seemingly gently over the rocks.
closeup of roses at botanical garden
Shore Acres botanical garden entrance
At the entrance to the Shore Acres Botanical Gardens that once belonged to timber baron Louis Simpson.
Among the roses in the rose section of the botanical garden is this one called Love & Peace...
closeup of rose
...and this one called Rainbow Sorbet.
colorful collection of dahlias
overview of cottage and gardens
closeup of tiny yellow spider on rose
All that is left of Simpson's estate are the gardens and this cottage.
sunset silhouetting a backpacker in the distance
An observation building now stands on the site of Simpson's mansions. In 1921, his first mansion was destroyed by fire. He rebuilt an even larger one, but then came the Great Depression and he lost it due to financial hardship. Both the house and grounds fell to disrepair, but in 1942 the land was purchased by the state of Oregon.
Waves hit the rocks offshore
Simpson's loss became the public's gain. Thanks to the state of Oregon, the land is now open for public use so that scenes like this can be enjoyed by all. This shot was taken at Simpson Reef, looking south.
Coastal shot looking south fromo Simpson Reef
Cape Arago, scenic view
In 1932, Simpson donated Cape Arago to the state. It included the southern most headland along the Cape Arago Highway. This large tract of land includes two coves - South Cove (pictured here) and North Cove.
Beach and coast at South Cove, Cape Arago
Dahlias bloom August through mid-October.
South Cove Cape Arago
Cape Arago SP North Cove
Cape Arago State Park's North Cove is small and tucked away, but you can still hear the sea lions from the nearby Shell Island.
flowers and driftwood
Shell Island, overloaded with seals and sea lions
Shell Island overloaded with seals and sea lions
Shell Island overloaded with seals and sea lions
Shell Island and the smaller islands around it comprise the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge. It is the largest collection of marine mammals on the Oregon coast.
small cove with beach
Scenic view along the coast
Just south of the Shore Acres State Park entrance on the highway is a very small trail down to Norton Gulch, this small cove and beach. If the tide is in, the beach may not be accessible.
the forested trail
The trail, part of the Oregon Coast Trail, sometimes meanders inland through fragrant pine forests. This section is along the mile between Shore Acres State Park and Cape Arago State Park.
little black squirrel on post
rock formations on beach
rock formations on beach
On the trail between Shore Acres and Cape Arago you cross a short foot bridge to this beach and cove. The rock formations along the side of the cliffs are unique, but common to the area.
foot bridge
rock formations on cliff
rock formations on beach
rock formations on beach
The Cape Arago Lighthouse, seen from a viewpoint off the Cape Arago Highway
silvery uprooted tree on shore
Cape Arago lighthouse in the distance
This weathered tree root looks to me like a silvery demon contorted in anger. Below it, as seen in the picture to the right, is a cavern made by the winds and waters as they gradually wear away the earth. Below, it won't be long before another tree succumbs to the forces of winter, proof that our earth is ever-changing.
cliff and shoreline looking north
worn to silver tree root
Sunset Bay beach
trees on edge of cliff ready to fall
At the north end of Battendorff Beach is the south jetty that separates the Coquille River from the Pacific. It's fun watching the waves crash against the jetty rocks.
sunset bay beach
Sunset Bay Beach (above and the next few shots)
sunset bay beach at sunset
gulls on the sunset bay beach shore
tree root forms tide pool on beach
Tree stumps weathered and covered in barnacles make excellent tide pools on Sunset Bay beach.
rays through trees
Between the Sunset Bay campground and its beach is a wonderful picnic area. A sign there marks the location where in the fall of 1973 Malcolm Forbes began his trans-continental hot-air ballon flight to Chesapeake Bay in Newport News, Virginia.
Sunset Bay State Park picnic area
Though not part of the trio of state parks on the Cape Arago Highway, Bastendorff County Park Beach is not to be ignored. Two miles long, it offers a deep beach, dunes, and a campground. The remainder of pix were taken there.
Bastendorff beach
Bastendorff beach
Bastendorff beach
Bastendorff beach
Bastendorff beach
Bastendorff beach
Bastendorff beach
Bastendorff beach
Bastendorff beach
Bastendorff beach
Bastendorff beach

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Yoakum Head flanks the south side of Bastendorff Beach.