the wandering chick
...Two roads that lead to Taos
the High Road and the Low Road
There was no doubt in my mind that when I took off for a day trip from Santa Fe to Taos that I would see some incredible scenery. I was not disappointed.
Between Santa Fe and Espanola, the scenery especially to the east is incredible. I kept taking little side roads to try to get into the heart of the limestone-like rock formations, but didn't have much success. I had to get my shots from the highway. Always in the distance, however, were the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the most southern range of the Rockies.
North of Espanola, however, I got my first real glimpse of the Rio Grande River along what I have learned is called The Low Road. There are several pullouts along the route where one can access the river. The mountains close in around you as you enter the river gorge. There is a Visitor Center on the east side with information on the gorge and several hiking trails.
The other road, a little less direct, between Sante Fe and Taos, is called, as one might guess, The High Road. It journies a little farther to the east, away from the Rio Grande Gorge, but through small villages and pueblo lands, almost every village with a charming adobe church with at least one cross atop gleaming in the sun.
With a few cross roads, it's not impossible to get from one route to the other. I stayed both in Santa Fe and in Taos for a couple of weeks each, so I was able to leisurely enjoy the two routes, often in segments. And they both had me squealing all the way home!
My first glimpse of the Rio Grande!
An old wooden plank bridge long past its prime
It always warms my heart to see cairns. These probably won't last through the next strong current.
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Broomweed, also called snakeweed and matchweed, covers the high desert floor.
The Las Minas Trail climbs a half-mile above the Highway 68 Visitor Center for a scenic view of the Rio Grande gorge and river (below).
The Low Road technically, I guess, begins in Espanola, Highway 68. But south of Espanola there is Highway 285/84 which eventually splits off in other directions. Along that route are a couple of fairly interesting sights such as The Santa Fe Opera, Flea Market Road and , as seen above: Camel Rock. From most angles, yep, a camel is what you see with little imagination. Across the street is Camel Rock Casino, which begs the questions: Which came first? I'd place bets on the rock.
Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday this flea market opens its booths to sell wares from mainly New Mexico, but a few international places, too, such as mask and wood carvings from Africa and rugs from the Orient. Yard decorations, clothing, the usual flea market items can be found there along with a few good eating booths.
A little side excursion off Highway 285/84 to the east is State Highway 73 which leads to a small village called Tesuque. This part of Tesuque is actually a small part of the Tesuque Pueblo, located a little farther to the north and west. But the route 73 takes you to a couple of art galleries and a restaurant that, when I was passing through, was pretty darn busy. The Village Market held the restaurant, a gift shop and market and lots of New Mexico colors around its outside area.
In Tesuque, this truck overloaded with ristras caught my eye.
This sculpture made of steel and entitled "Bull Frog" and a field of others can be found at the Sculpture Garden of the Shidoni Foundry & Galleries in Tesuque. The artist is William Allen.
This bronze was sculpted by Mary Griffith and entitled " Who Me?"
This is also a sculpture in the garden entitled "La percha de la Abuelita"...loosely Grandma's clothesline. The artist is Nicholas Herrera.
The Tesuque Glass Works is adjacent to the Sculpture Garden.
Just a few miles east along the Low Road is the town of Dixon. The town's church is Saint Anthony Church. A new one was built right next door to replace the one pictured here, but this one I found much more charming. I'm glad it was left standing.
The Rio Grande gorge at dusk, taken from Highway 68, the Low Road. In the distance are the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.
Rising in the east and not quite at its fullest, the moon casts a gentle glow on the world below. It will be the next night that a red moon and a lunar eclipse will occur.
Certainly the most well-known church along the High Road to Taos to ths one, El Santuario de Chimayó. It's also the most picturesque. It's not as famous for its charm as it is for its ability to heal the sick and disabled. Known as the Lourdes of the U.S., Chimayó is a well-known Pilgrimage site. A small room translated "the little well" contains a pit of sand known as "holy dirt" that some believe has healing powers. Rooms filled with crutches and with photos and letters of those healed attest to the holy power. It is said that pilgrims walk, during Holy Week, the 30-mile distance from Santa Fe to the sanctuary.
Some 300,000 people visit the church each year, some for religious reasons, some out of curiosity. But for whatever purpose they come, they leave with a common feeling: that of respect, reverence.
The Chimayó sanctuary is a National Historic Landmark and is on the National Register of Historic Places. It was founded in 1816 and is located just off State Road 76 at the south end of the High Road to Taos.
A statue of the Lady of Lavang who protected Catholics from persecution in Vietnam in the late 1700s. The statue sits on the grounds of the Chimayó church.
In recent years, the town of Chimayó has become increasingly more touristy, unfortunately. And while I visited, it was the peak of chile season. Chimayó is part of a group of villages at the foot of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Its population is a little more than 3000, and local artisans abound. A well-known restaurant, the Rancho de Chimayó, is close by as well.
The Sacred Heart Church in Nambe, another small town along the High Road.
Coyote fence is as common in New Mexico as stone fences are in Ireland. Made of cedar, Douglas fir or spruce, they're used for privacy, for decoration and even to hide unsightly trash cans and electric meters.
The landscape is the main reason the High Road is a designated Scenic Byway, officiallly called the High Road to Taos Scenic Byway.
Another unincorporated town along the route is Truchas, located about halfway between Taos and Sante Fe. Its church is The Old Truchas Mission of the Holy Rosary.
Parts of residential Truchas line the New Mexico State Highway 76, part of the scenic route.
One of the eight Northern Pueblos of New Mexico is Picuris. Its church, the San Lorenzo de Picuris, I thought, was one of the most unique along the High Road, although it has been restored in recent years from the original built in 1776. The pueblo people are especially known for a type of pottery, but weaving and beadwork are also done by members of the tribe. Picuris is on the National Register of Historic Places. Photos are not allowed on the pueblo, but can be taken with a permit.
The San Jose de Gracia Church in Las Trampas was built in 1760. It is Spanish Colonial architecture and is considered one of the best examples of that style in New Mexico and is yet another along the High Road that is on the National Register of Historic Places. The village of Las Trampas was established in 1751 by 12 families from Sante Fe.
The Sangre de Cristo Mountains is the most southern range of the Rocky Mountains. They extend into Colorado and run the whole length of the east side of Taos before fading out as they reach Sante Fe. Sangre de Cristo means "Blood of Christ" and is thought to be known by the reddish hues seen during sunrise and sunset.